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Map of Dhaka
Dhaka from the air!
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7th - 16th century: Buddhist Kamarupa to Hindu Sena Dynasty to Sultanate of Bengal
The existence of urbanised settlements in the area that is now Dhaka city dates from the 7th century. The present day Savar was the capital of the Sanbagh Kingdom during seventh and eighth century. The city area of Dhaka was ruled by the Buddhist kingdom of Kamarupa (first historical kingdom in Assam, covering the entire Brahmaputra river valley, North Bengal and parts of Bangladesh) and the Pala Empire before passing to the control of the Hindu Sena dynasty in the 9th century.
The Sena dynasty were called Brahma-Kshatriyas i.e. those who were Brahmanas first and became Kshatriyas afterwards, as evidenced through their surname which is derived from the Sanskrit for "army".
Origin of the name 'Dhaka'
There's no historical clarity regarding the origin of the name of Dhaka. Many Hindus believe it is derived after the establishment of the Goddess Dhakeshwari's temple by Ballal Sena in the 12th century. Dhaka and its surrounding area was identified as Bengalla around that period. The town itself consisted of a few market centers like Lakshmi Bazar, Shankhari Bazar, Tanti Bazar, Patuatuli, Kumartuli, Bania Nagar and Goal Nagar.
Other suggestions put forward about the origin are:
- The name is derived from the Dak tree (Butea frondosa) which was once found in the place in abundance.
- The Hindu Goddess Durga, found concealed (dhaka-Ishvari or concealed goddess) in the place.
- The dhak or drum beaten by order of islam khan while inaugurating the capital.
- A Prakrt dialect called Dhaka Bhasa.
- Dhakka used in the Rajtarangini for a watch-station.
- It's the same as Davaka, mentioned in the Allahabad pillar inscription of Samudra Gupta as an eastern frontier kingdom.
Sultans take over
After the Sena Empire, Dhaka was successively ruled by the Sultanate of Bengal, a state that existed from the 14th through the 16th centuries which was eventually absorbed into the Mughal Empire. In 1342, a local warlord, Shamsuddin Ilyas Shah proclaimed himself as monarch of the Kingdom of Lakhnauti. He would go on to consolidate his rule by conquering the other independent kingdoms of Bengal before proclaiming himself as Sultan of Bengal in 1352.
The absorption of Bengal into the Mughal Empire was a gradual process beginning with the defeat of Bengali forces under Sultan Nasiruddin Nasrat Shah by Babur at the battle of Ghaghra.
In addition to the governance by the Sultanate of Bengal, Dhaka was successively ruled by interruption of Turkish and Afghan governors descending from the Delhi Sultanate (a term used to cover five short-lived Islamic kingdoms or sultanates in medieval India) before the arrival of the Mughals in 1610.
1610: Jahangir's Mughals come to town
Mughal empire ruled a large portion of the Indian subcontinent extending from Bengal in the east to Balochistan in the west, Kashmir in the north to the Kaveri basin in the south from 1526 to mid-19th century. The emperors were descendants of the Timurids, a dynasty of Turco-Mongol ancestry.
Capital of Bengal
In 1610 Mughal subahdar Islam Khan Chishti transferred the capital of Subah Bangla from Rajmahal to Dhaka. Dhaka now became capital of the subah (province) of Bengal, Bihar and Orissa and Islam Khan Chishti became the first administrator of the city. Islam Khan renamed the town "Jahangir Nagar" (City of Jahangir) in honor of the Mughal emperor Nur-ud-din Salim Jahangir, popularly known as Emperor Jahangir. The city then was fairly large, measuring 12 x 8 miles (19 x 13 km), and had a population of nearly one million people.
From 1610 to 1715, the Mughals would use Dhaka as a base for integrating diverse peoples into their social and bureaucratic system and for transforming into arable land the vast stretches of forest that still covered most of "Bhati", or the eastern delta. Moreover, as Dhaka was connected to the Padma-Ganges river system at a point midway between the Bay of Bengal and older seats of Muslim power in the Gaur-Tanda region, the city would serve as an ideal entrepôt for riverine trade between East and West Bengal, between Bengal and Upper India, and between Bengal and the wider world beyond the bay.
Richard M. Eaton, author of "The Rise of Islam and the Bengal Frontier, 1204-1760" (1993)
'Jahangir Nagar' reverted back to Dhaka
Emperor Jahangir was the third and eldest surviving son of Mogul Emperor Akbar whose twin sons, Hasan and Hussain, died in infancy. It is said to be by the blessing of Shaikh Salim Chishti, one of the revered sages of his times, that Akbar's first surviving child, the future Jahangir, was born. Jahangir's grandad was Humayun and his great grandfather was Babur, the founder of the Mughal dynasty.
Though the name Jahangir Nagar was used in official circles, the general public still carried on calling it Dhaka. All foreigh travellers and foreign company officials used the name Dhaka in their records and dispatches. After Emperor Jahangir passed away (1627), the name 'Jahangir Nagar' was dropped and reverted back to 'Dhaka'.
Mirza Abu Talib (aka Shaista Khan) promotes growth of Dhaka
The main expansion of the city took place under Mughal General Mirza Abu Talib, better known by his title Shaista Khan, who served as the Mughal governor of Bengal from 1664 to 1688. He was the maternal uncle to Emperor Aurangzeb, the third son and sixth child of Emperor Shah Jahan and Mumtaz and the grandson of Emperor Jahangir.
Mirza Abu Talib came from a prestigious lineage as his grandfather, Mirza Ghias Beg Itimaduddaula, and father, Asaf Khan, were the wazirs (or Prime Ministers) of the Mughal Emperors Shahjahan and Jahangir respectively. It was Emperor Jahangir who had awarded Mirza Abu Talib the title of 'Shaista Khan' in recognition of his family's service and position in the Mughal court.
Power consolidated
Upon his victory against the Arakanese, Shaista Khan ordered the release of thousands of Bengali peasants being held captive by the Arakanese forces. As governor, Shaista Khan encouraged trade with Europe, Southeast Asia and other parts of India. He consolidated his power by signing trade agreements with European powers, and despite his powerful position he still remained loyal to Emperor Aurangzeb.
As the administrative and military headquarters of the province, Dhaka expanded rapidly, and soon the growth of its trade and commerce and the flourishing world-famous cotton textile (muslin) industry brought additional wealth and increased population and led to further expansion, making it the queen of the cities of eastern India.
During this period, a large number of foreign traders settled here. Among them, the Portuguese, the Armenians, the Dutch, the English and the French established their factories in the Banglabazar and the Babubazar areas of the town.
Kamal Siddiqui, Jamshed Ahmed & Sayeedul Huq , authors of "Social Formation in Dhaka, 1985-2005: A Longitudinal Study of Society in a Third World Megacity" (2010)
Contemporary and later historians have praised Shaista Khan for his superb generalship, his administration of justice and promotion of the welfare of the people. They have also emphasized on his liberality, charity and religions pursuits. He was also a poet and a scholar. His building activities provided models for his age. He was also praised because in his time the price of grain was extremely low, so much so that rice was being sold at the rate of 8 maunds per rupee. The contemporaries described him as the model of excellence.
Let him only open this gate who can show the selling rate of rice as cheap as this.
Shaista Khan's parting inscription engraved on the western gate of Dhaka
Often mediating trade disputes and rivalries, Shaista Khan banned the British East India Company from Bengal after the British demanded greater trading rights. This dispute erupted in hostile military exchanges between Mughal and British forces.
At the height of its glory and prosperity during the Mughal period, the boundaries of Dhaka were defined to the south by the river Buriganga (on whose north bank it is situated), to the north by the Tongi bridge, a distance of about 15 miles, and from Jafarabad on the west to Postogola on the east, a distance of about 10 miles. However, the city itself was limited to 10 miles of the riverbank and at most two-and-a-half miles inland to the north. The greater part of the north of the city consisted of gardens and cropland and was sparsely populated. The city was also said to have contained a population of 900,000.
Many palaces, mosques, temples, roads, bridges, gateways, gardens, aqueducts, tanks, markets and ghats (landing places on the river) were built to meet the needs of high officials, while the ordinary people, unsurprisingly, lived in the crowded quarters of what is now known as Old Dhaka.
During its "golden era", when it was ruled by Shaista Khan (1663-1679), Dhaka must have been one of the largest cities of the world
Kamal Siddiqui, Jamshed Ahmed & Sayeedul Huq , authors of "Social Formation in Dhaka, 1985-2005: A Longitudinal Study of Society in a Third World Megacity" (2010)
Lalbagh, Chowk Bazaar Masjid and other legacies of Shaista Khan
Shaista Khan was a great builder. He built a number of mosques, tombs and secular buildings in the capital city of Dhaka and outside. Important among his contribution are the Chhota Katra built by Shaista Khan around 1664 to accomodate visiting merchants, wayfarers and visitors, the Chowk Bazaar Masjid, the Satgumbad Masjid (7-domed Mosque) and the expansion to Lalbagh Fort.
He supervised the construction of a majestic mausoleum for his daughter Bibi Pari ('Fair Lady') in Lalbagh Fort. Bibi Pari, also known as Iran Dukht, was married to Prince Muhammad Azam who constructed Lalbagh Fort but she met a premature death. Shaista Khan spent lavishly on the construction of the tomb of his beloved daughter by importing costly building materials from north India. The tomb today is a very fine specimen of the architecture of Dhaka and symbolises the growth that took place at the time of Shaista Khan.
His legacy was the expansion of Dhaka into a regional centre of trade, politics and culture, and its transformation into a thriving and prosperous city from a small township. The Shaista Khan Mosque was constructed as a tribute to Shaista Khan and built on his old palace grounds. Incorporating unique elements of Bengali and Mughal architecture, it is a major tourist attraction and a valued historical monument protected by the Government of Bangladesh today.
In his late years, Shaista Khan left Dhaka and returned to Delhi. He ruled Bengal for 24 years (1664-1688) with a short break of little over one year in 1678-79.
It was in Dhaka, however, that the imperial style was most lavishly indulged in. Overturning a Bengali architectural tradition patronized by centuries of Muslim rulers, Mughal rulers raised buildings here that were virtual transplants from the North Indian heartland. Typical was the Bara Katra (1644), a huge hostelry that once contained chambers, shops, and an imposing multistoried southern gate with an octagonal central chamber. Although the Bara Katra is now ruined, a number of splendid mosques from the period have survived, in particular the Satgumbad mosque (ca. 1664–76) and the mosques of Haji Khwaja Shahbaz (1679) and Khan Muhammad Mirza (1704). With their battlements, cusped entrance arches, increased articulation of exterior and interior surfaces, and, especially in the Satgumbad mosque, projecting corner turrets with pavilions, these monuments firmly established in Bengal the aesthetic vision of Mughal imperialism. That vision reached its acme in the handsome ensemble of garden and monuments in Dhaka’s Lalbagh Fort.
Included in this complex are a mosque, a tomb, an audience hall (Diwan-i Khas), a bath, a tank, and a walled enclosure with gates. Standing within Lalbagh one readily recalls the great palace-garden complexes of the imperial heartland—at Lahore, Delhi, and Agra—and realizes that this, too, could only have been conceived and built by outsiders to Bengal. No element of the complex is indigenous to the delta.
Richard M. Eaton, author of "The Rise of Islam and the Bengal Frontier, 1204-1760" (1993)
Street names highlight diversity
Even today Dhaka has wide ranging street names and localities suggesting the influence of multiple cultures. For example Urdu road names such as Diwanbazar, Bakhshibazar, Mughaltoli, Hazaribagh, Peelkhana, Atishkhana, Mahouttoli signify that they had once been occupied and inhabited by Mughal civil and military officials at one time or another.
Kayettoli signifies the quarter of the Kayets (or Kayasthas), the Hindu writers of the Mughal government. This indicates that commercial and professional interests also contributed to the growth of the city.
Places like Tantibazar, Sankharibazar, Banianagar, Kamarnagar etc were residences of Hindu professional groups. Places whose names end with 'ganj', like Nawabganj, Alamganj etc were developed by business interests, and places ending with 'dewri', like Becharam Dewri, Mir Jammal Dewri, etc were connected with property developers.
1765: British take over
In 1666 the British East India Company established a trading post in Dhaka. However, Dhaka’s decline as a maritime trade centre had already begun. Dhaka remained the capital under the Mughals until 1704, when the Nawab of Bengal Murshid Quli Khan moved it to Murshidabad, named after himself.
The British East India Company gained right to collect revenue (Diwani right) and extended its power to such an extent that by 1757 it controlled all of Bengal except Dhaka. It took over governing Dhaka in 1765 after the Battle of Plassey when Nawabs of Bengal were forced to abdicate all their authority over Bengal, Bihar and Orissa and the city passed on to total British control.
Dhaka's development under the British
The city's population shrank dramatically during the British rule as the prominence of Kolkata rose. Kolkata became the capital of British India, and Dhaka, whose name was anglicized to 'Dacca', remained smaller than Kolkata. Political power shifted to Kolkata which gradually took administrative and military control over the whole country and increasingly monopolised trade and commerce. Later another blow came when the importation of cheap mill-made English cotton goods ruined Dhaka’s flourishing textile industry.
In 1765, the city had an estimated population of 450,000 and in 1793 was stated to cover an area four miles long and two-and-a-half miles broad. By 1801, the population had declined to 200,000 and the limits to the city shrunk still further, from Enayaetganj on the west to Faridabad on the east, a distance of about three-and-a-half miles, and from the Buriganga on the south to Dewanbazar on the north, a distance of about a-mile-and-a-half. and the limits to the city shrunk still further, from Enayaetganj on the west to Faridabad on the east, a distance of about three-and-a-half miles, and from the Buriganga on the south to Dewanbazar on the north, a distance of about a-mile-and-a-half.
In 1824, Bishop Heber described the city as merely the wreck of its ancient grandeur, having two-thirds of its vast area filled with ruins and jungles.
In 1840, James Taylor found Dhaka to have degenerated into a filthy and insanitary place.
Kamal Siddiqui, Jamshed Ahmed & Sayeedul Huq , authors of "Social Formation in Dhaka, 1985-2005: A Longitudinal Study of Society in a Third World Megacity" (2010)
But substantive development and modernisation eventually followed.It was under the British, during the late 18th and early 19th centuries, that the dominant forms of current economic development were established: indigo, sugar, tobacco, tea and, of course, jute. A modern civic water supply system was introduced in 1874 and electricity supply launched in 1878. The Dhaka Cantonment was established near the city, serving as a base for British and Bengali soldiers.
Dhaka's on/off capital status
In 1887 Dhaka became a district capital of Bangladesh, and in 1905 Bengal was divided into east and west referred to as Bongabondho, Partition of Bengal. Dhaka was declared to be the capital of the newly established state of East Bengal which incorporated Assam. However, it was short-lived as six years later both East and West Bengal became reunited in 1911.
Nevertheless, from this point on Dhaka again began to assume some measure of importance as an administrative centre. Government buildings, churches, residential enclaves and educational institutions transformed it into a city of great prosperity.
1947: Granted city status and becomes Capital of East Pakistan
Following the Partition of India in 1947 when British India became divided into India and Pakistan (with Pakistan divided geographically into East and West Pakistan), Dhaka became the capital of East Pakistan. The city witnessed major communal violence following the partition. A large proportion of the city's Hindu population departed for India, while the city received a large influx of Muslims.
The city's population rose dramatically in a very short period of time, which created severe shortages and infrastructural problems. As the center of regional politics, however, Dhaka saw an increasing number of political strikes and incidents of violence.
The adoption of Urdu as the sole official language of Pakistan led to protest marches involving large crowds. Known as the 'Basha Andolan', or Bengali Language Movement, the protests resulted in Pakistani police firing which killed a number of peaceful student demonstrators.
Throughout the 1950s and 1960s, Dhaka remained a hotbed of political activity, and the demands for autonomy for the Bengali population gradually gained momentum.
1971: Swadhinata Juddho starts and ends in Dhaka
Starting from the massacre of Dhaka people on midnight of 25 March 1971 in 'Operation Searchlight' by West Pakistani army, to Declaration of Independence the following day, and eventually through to Bijoy Dibosh (Victory Day) of 16 December 1971, Dhaka remained at the heart of all major events during the Swadhinata Juddho.
Once victory was achieved, Dhaka once again was restored to its capital-city status - this time for the new nation of Bangladesh.
The 1970 Bhola cyclone devastated much of the region, killing an estimated 500,000 people. More than half the city was flooded and millions of people were left stranded. With public anger growing against ethnic discrimination and poor cyclone relief efforts from the central government, Bengali politician Sheikh Mujibur Rahman held a nationalist gathering on 7 March 1971 at the Race Course Ground.
Over one million people had attended the historic gathering, leading to the March 26 declaration of Bangladesh's independence.
In response, the Pakistan Army launched "Operation Searchlight" which led to the arrests, torture and killing of thousands of people, mainly Hindus and Bengali intellectuals. After nine months of bloody battle with Mukti Bahini, Bangladesh's liberation forces, and finally with the Mitro Bahini, the 'Allied Forces' of Indian Army and Mukti Bahini, the Pakistani Army surrendered on 16 December 1971 marking the end of the independence war of Bangladesh.
As the nation's capital, Dhaka saw a rapid and massive growth of the city population in the post-independence period, as migrant workers from rural areas across Bangladesh moved to the city. At present, an estimated 300,000 to 400,000 migrants come to Dhaka each year adding to the 3.4 million who already live in slums of Dhaka.
At present: Real estate boom
Dhaka has been witnessing an exponential growth in real estate boom for some time now and this has led to the expansion of the city limits and the development of new settlements such as Uttara, Mohammadpur, Bashundhara, Mirpur and Motijheel.
As the nation's capital city, Dhaka attracts migrant workers from rural areas across Bangladesh. However, the growth of commerce and industry along with the city's population continues to create further challenges to the city's services and infrastructure.
The land prices increased by 25 times and the apartment prices were ten times higher during the last 15 years, making Dhaka’s real estate the most costly in the region after Mumbai and Delhi.
Real estate companies are now looking for more housing projects outside Dhaka, as the soaring land prices and its scarcity in the capital have lead to apartments being beyond the purchasing capacity of many potential clients. Realtors have recently engaged in projects in different areas surrounding Dhaka, including: Naravangani, Comilla, Gazipur, and Mymensingh, to provide flats at affordable prices.
Population explosion
Dhaka is the 11 largest megacity in the world, and faces the typical challenges of housing, sanitation, jobs and education that mass population brings. Approximately 28% of its population live below the poverty line.
City (country) Population (millions) in 2005 Tokyo (Japan) 26.4 Mexico City (Mexico) 19 New York (USA) 18.5 Mumbai (India) 18.3 Sao Paolo (Brazil) 18.3 Delhi (India) 15.3 Kolkata (India) 14.3 Buenos Aires (Argentina) 13.3 Jakarta (Indonesia) 13.2 Shanghai (China) 12.7 Dhaka (Bangladesh) 12.6 -
Places of worship
Historical places
Dhaka landmarks
Dhaka parks & stadiums
Others:
Old pictures of Dhaka
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- Sheikh Mujibur Rahman (17 Mar 1920 - 15 Aug 1975) 1st President and 2nd Prime Minister of independent Bangladesh. Leader of Awami League. Popularly referred to as 'Bangabandhu' (Friend of Bengal) and 'Jathir Jonok/Pitha' (Father of Nation). Participated in 1952 Bhasha Andolon. Gave the historic 'Ebarer sangram muktir sangram, ebarer sangram swadhinatar sangram' 7 March 1971 speech in Ramna Racecourse (now Suhrawardy Udyan) to inspire a nation to fight for their right. Imprisoned in (West) Pakistani jail for nine-and-half month during Mukhtijuddho. First Constitution of Bangladesh formulated under his leadership. Won Bangladesh's first general election. Creator of the controversial BAKSAL one-party ruling system. Assassinated along with most of his family by rebel officers on 15 August 1975 at family home in Dhanmondi, Dhaka. Daughter Hasina has become PM of Bangladesh on many occassions. Born and buried in Tangail, Dhaka bibhag.
- Maulana Abdul Hamid Khan Bhashani (12 Dec 1880 - 17 Nov 1976) Eminent political leader and founder of Awami League (AL) and National Awami Party (NAP).
- Tajuddin Ahmad (23 July 1925 - 3 Nov 1975) First Prime Minister of Bangladesh.
- Fazlur Rahman Khan (3 Apr 1929 – 27 Mar 1982) Bangladeshi-American structural engineer and architect. Considered the Father of tubular designs for high-rises. Designed Willis Tower – the 2nd tallest building in the United States (and tallest in the world for many years) - John Hancock Centre (a 100-story tall building), and Hajj Terminal of King Abdulaziz International Airport, Saudi Arabia.
- Golam Azam (Born 7 Nov 1922) Ameer of Jamaat-e-Islami Bangladesh until 2000. Bhasha Shoinik (Language Activist) during 1952 Bhasha Andolon. Found guilty in 2013 for alleged war crimes during 1971 Muktijuddho.
- Shirin Sharmin Chaudhury (Born 6 Oct 1966) First female Speaker of Jatiyo Sangshad (National Parliament). Commenced April 2013, and at 46 years of age, she is the youngest to assume the office.
- Shamsur Rahman (23 Oct 1929 - 17 Aug 2006) Bengali poet, columnist and journalist. Unofficial poet laureate of Bangladesh. Wrote more than 60 books of poetry.
- Shahidul Alam (Born 1955) Renowned photographer. Founder of Drik picture library (1989), Pathshala: South Asian Institute of Photography (1998) and a director of Chobi Mela, the festival of photography in Asia.
- A. A. M. S. Arefin Siddique (Born 26 Oct 1953)Vice Chancellor of Dhaka University since 15 January 2009. Former professor of Department of Mass Communication and Journalism at DU.
- Abdul Malek Chunnu (1958 - 9 May 2013) Legendary hockey player, national coach and national award winning sportsperson.
- Siddiqua Kabir (7 May 1931 - 31 Jan 2012) Bengali nutritionist, academic, cookbook author and cooking show television host. Famously starred in Siddiqua Kabir's Recipe on NTV Bangla.
important info, tips, hints... ittadhi
- Dhaka's official website: www.dhakacity.org
- Shah Jalal International Airport telephone:
- Hospital telephone:
- Railway:
- Police Control Room: 639022
- Shops opening hours: 11am - 7pm everyday except Friday when they're closed.
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May Allah bless Dhaka and our People. Ameen.